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How to Fit Bar Mixer Shower Pipework

This article explains how to 1st repair pipework for a bar mixer shower valve setup.

Intro

When installing a bar mixer shower valve such as the one shown, it is first necessary to run hot and cold pipework to the valve.

Installing a Bar Mixer Shower Valve

Please see Choosing a shower for your restroom for more details on shower types and their suitability for your restroom.

This is done by recessing the pipes within the wall prior to tiling.

In this case research study I will be recessing the pipework into a bathroom wall that has already been dot n dabbed with wetness resistant plasterboard.

Doing the plaster-boarding prior to the 1st repair pipework makes it simpler to get completely flat & level walls as you do not have the fiddly job of attempting to fit the boards around/ over the pipework (to name a few things.).

Walls also need to be square in the corners to enable a great seal (along the edge of the bath in this circumstances.).

Please see Preparing walls for tiling-- reboarding for additional information relating to this subject.

Technique.

Using Bath to Mark Overflow/Waste and Center of Bath Taps.

The bath is temporarily placed in position, and the centre line (that runs through the overflow/ waste and the centre of the bath taps) is marked.

This will assist us line the shower valve up with the taps for a more visually pleasing surface.

The horizontal level of the bar mixer shower valve is then marked, which is usually around 130cm from the floor. If you are planning to fit a bar mixer shower with a fixed riser and shower head, you will require to make sure that this height enables you to fit the shower in without it hitting the ceiling.

Correct Shower HeightIncorrect Shower Height.

Next the pipe centres are marked with vertical lines at 150mm centres i.e. 75mm far from the centre line in both instructions. This is where the pipework will range from the valve, down the wall and connect to the pipework under the bath.

A lot of bar mixer shower valves accept pipework at 150mm centres as this is thought about standard-- if your particular design has a different pipeline centre worth, then you need to show this at the defining phase.

An area to be chased out is then marked (into which the pipes can be recessed beneith the surface area of the plasterboard.).

The approximate height of the bath rim is also marked at this phase.

Correct Shower Height.

The areas to be chased after out are then gone after out utilizing a specific saw, making sure that they extend listed below the level of the bath rim, which is marked in pencil on the plasterboard.

Here we can see the pipework under the bath that will be extended approximately feed the shower valve.

The hot feed will be run up the left hand channel, and the cold feed will be run up the right hand channel.

This is because the hot feed will enter the valve on the left (as we look at it) and the cold feed on the right.

This is an industry standard.

Because of this, the pipework under the bath remains in line with this configuration.

You can see that the bath waste pipe & trap has also been fitted at this time. When the bath remained in position, a cross was marked on the floor through the waste hole in the bottom of the bath to mark the necessary place of the bath trap.

Copper Pipework Is Soldered And Then Placed Into The Channels.

Two pieces of 15mm copper pipework are then soldered together with a 90º elbow for each feed, which are then positioned into the channels as shown.

The horizontal pieces of copper (at the top) will eventually be lowered to enter into the back of the http://trentonftup963.trexgame.net/5-laws-that-ll-help-the-plumber-glasgow-industry bar mixer valve.

The pipes are held level and square to the wall at 150mm centres (centred on the initial centre line) by a home-made jig which is screwed to the wall temporarily. This is essential as connecting the shower valve relies on this stage of the work being done properly:.

Pipes Are Held Level And Square To The Wall.

It is very important the the pipes are recessed far enough into the wall so that the 90º elbow fitting does not protrude out beyond the finished tiled surface.

This will make sure that it does not interfere with the fitting of the bar mixer shower valve.

Incorrect Shower PipeworkCorrect Shower Pipework.

The pipes are then protected in place by using either drywall adhesive, rapidset tile adhesive or a sand-cement mix.

If utilizing a mix consisting of cement, please make sure the pipes are wrapped in duct tape to avoid the cement from assaulting the copper which could result in pinholes and leaks developing with time.

The mix is pushed in and around the pipes and is utilized to support the cut edges of the plasterboard.

Mix Is Levelled Off Flush With Surface of Plasterboard.

This is then levelled off flush with the surface of the plasterboard, guaranteeing access to the bottom of the pipes is left open so that they can be connected up later.

Batons are screwed and glued to both walls bordering the bath, and these will assist to take the weight of the bath when it has lots of water and/or residents. This will prevent it from dropping, which can lead to damaged silicon seals and water ingress issues.

Temporarily Position The Bath to Allow For The Pipework To Be Connected.

The bath is then temporarily positioned in position to permit the pipework to be linked.

The existing hot and cold pipework is linked to the appropriate pipework in the wall that will feed the shower valve.

Provisions are also made at this phase to connect the bath taps-- via flexible push fit tap connectors in this instance.

Similar to the shower valve, hot is on the left and cold on the right (as you take a look at the tap) so this makes pipework easier.

Jig Is Removed And Voids Are Filled With Adhesive.

As soon as the adhesive holding the pipes has gone off and the pipes are firmly kept in the appropriate position, the jig can be eliminated and any remaining voids filled out with more adhesive.

As the pipework is now connected to the cold and hot supplied, stop ends can be seen in location at the ends of the pipes.

The bath is now be installed, and you can see the primary silicon seal around the edge of the bath in this image.

Tanking And Tiling The Walls.

The walls are then tanked and tiled.

Installing a Bar Mixer Shower Valve.

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Plumbing Tips You Can Try Out On Your Own

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Prior to beginning any plumbing project be sure to turn off the main water system. Water damage can be among the most expensive things to repair. To decrease damage turn the primary supply of water off along with any shut off valves near where you are working. This will conserve a great deal of hardship later on.

If the water is not going into your dishwashing machine, the first thing you should do is shut off the water under the sink. Chances are that you have some type of obstruction, and keeping the water switched on could really create a larger issue. To fix the obstruction, you might need to call a plumber.

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Ensure overflow holes are cleaned out. This can assist to prevent any water damage. Overflow holes are a way to stop water from overflowing if a sink is left on by mishap. If the overflow hole is obstructed it will not have the ability to do its task.

Make certain that when you are doing any house enhancements to your plumbing that they are done up to the building codes in your location. The building regulations are there to protect individuals from being scalded by hot water, trap harmful sewage system gas from going into the home, and make sure plumbing is done correctly prior to surfaces are applied.

In conclusion, you understand that your pocketbook will certainly take a hit if you have to rely on outside help for all of your plumbing problems. Utilize the recommendations in this article and you may solve any problems that might accompany the plumbing in your home from now on.